Clonfert Cathedral

I saw a wonderful photo today by Christiaan Corlett of the Romanesque doorway at Killeshin Co. Laois pic.twitter.com/VJwNW0gcFp. It is very reminiscent of the one at Clonfert, although Clonfert is much more ornate. Thanks to my good friend Conor Cahill for the photo.

Romanesque doorway at Clonfert Cathedral

Romanesque doorway at Clonfert Cathedral

Excerpt from ‘The River Shannon – A Journey Down Ireland’s Longest River’.

The fishermen wave to us as we pass by, following the river away from Shannonbridge and the tower of the power station, not realising it is the last time we will see it. The river Suck (An tSuca) joins the Shannon from the west here, and we pass it by as come around a bend in the river that turns us in a south east direction towards our destination of Banagher. It has been possible to navigate the 16km up the Suck to Ballinasloe since 2001, which it has not been possible to do since the section of the Grand Canal here closed in 1961. The canal opened here in 1828, and was linked to the Dublin line of the canal by a wooden bridge over the Shannon for tracer horses.  The bridge was replaced by a cable-operated ferry in the 1840s, but with the arrival of the railway in 1851, the canal gradually declined until its eventual closure in 1961. The channel of the canal is still present, apart from a filled in section at the northern end, and you can follow its course from the Shannon to Ballinasloe. Various features have survived too, including two lock chambers and lock keeper’s houses, 4 bridges, 4 canal-related buildings and 4 of the original 7 aqueducts.

We continue on towards our destination of Banagher, passing under the industrial railway line that crosses from the west of the river to the power station. There is a fork in the river up ahead, but we bare left, following the navigation markers. We are passing close to the tiny village of Clonfert (Cluain Fearta, meaning the meadow of the grave) in Co. Galway, home of St. Brendan’s Cathedral. It could be possible to access the cathedral from here with some ingenuity and bravery, involving launching the canoe off the side of the boat and paddling across to the western bank of the river. There is a road from there that leads directly up to the cathedral, but the logistics are too difficult and we decide to leave Clonfert to a later date and access it by car.

St. Brendan the Navigator founded a monastery here in the 6th Century, but there are no remains left of that original church. That is not surprising seeing as the monastery was destroyed by fire in 744, 748 and 749 and then in the 9th Century it was attacked by Vikings on 4 occasions and reduced to ashes after one of the attacks. The fact that the monastery was located within a large sweeping bend in the river and therefore exposed to the river on three sides meant that in addition to being very  was particularly vulnerable to attack. The cathedral that stands on the site today is only the most recent in a series of ecclesiastical buildings on that site since Early Christian times. The oldest feature to survive is the western doorway, which is the largest and most elaborate example of a Romanesque doorway in Ireland.

We continue along downstream, passing green fields on one side and a sea of brown on the other where the peat is currently being removed, probably for the power station at Shannonbridge. As we approach the area around Shannon Harbour, we pass by the first in a series of islands that the river winds around between here and Banagher – Ash Island, Lehinch, Inshinaskeagh, Minus, Bullock, Grants and Birds. Just after Inshinaskeagh the channel splits off to our left, up towards Shannon Harbour. This is the point where many boaters begin their Shannon Journey as this is where the Grand Canal ends, and via the 36th lock you can enter the Shannon system. The River Brosna meets the Shannon here also, just below the 36th Lock.

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